Diamonds are offered in a variety of shapes, also known as cuts. Each different type of cut enhances different aspects of the diamond, bringing some unique quality that makes them stand out against others, and knowing what each shape has to offer can be a real help when looking for that perfect diamond. Here at Heiress we offer the finest diamonds in a range of cuts to suit all tastes, and we can look at what each one has to offer individually.

Asscher Cut

Also known as the Square Emerald cut, the Asscher cut uses a step-cut process to create its unique appearance. With cropped corners, the shape is almost octagonal, the cut features 58 facets and enhances brilliance, producing exceptional clarity that is incredibly beautiful to look at. With the clear appearance of glacier ice and a bright, shiny finish, Asscher cut diamonds really stand out.

However, the shape of this cut magnifies any inclusions, and so it is important to choose high clarity diamonds with this cut, to avoid the problem.

Brilliant Cut

The most popular cut available today, with over half of all cut diamonds sold being Brilliant Cut. Often known as Round Cut, its distinctive cone shape delivers incredible brilliance, with light being pushed through the table to create an incredibly bright diamond. The cut gives each diamond 58 facets, with 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion, and minimizes the effect of inclusions, making this the perfect cut for most clarity grades.

One thing to note about the brilliant cut is the way the angles of the crown and pavilion complement each other. With a shallow crown angle, the cut uses a steep pavilion angle to complement it, and vice versa.

Cushion Cut

Created as a cross between the Old Mine Cut that was popular in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, and the modern Oval Cut, this 58-facet cut has rounded corners and a flatter crown to give the shape of a cushion or pillow, which is where the name comes from.

While it cannot match the brilliance of a Brilliant Cut, the Cushion Cut features large facets, which give a greater light dispersion, and therefore much higher levels of fire, the spectral color in the light reflections, than any other flat diamond has to offer.

Emerald Cut

Admired for its beauty, what sets the Emerald Cut apart is its pavilion, which uses rectangular facets to create a somewhat unique appearance as the light reacts differently to other shapes. There are 57 facets in total, 25 on the crown and 32 on the pavilion. Although lacking in fire and brilliance compared to some, the rectangular facets, combined with a large table, provide exceptional clarity from this cut. However, because flaws can be greatly magnified with the Emerald Cut, depending on their location, it should be saved for high clarity diamonds.

The precision of the step cut, first used on Emeralds, where the cut gets its name, and the clarity that this shape provides make for a truly beautiful diamond.

Heart Cut

Heart shaped diamonds are, for obvious reasons, considered some of the most romantic diamonds out there. It is not just the shape, the cut is based upon the Brilliant Cut, and enhances brightness, making these diamonds exceptionally beautiful. With between 56 and 58 facets, including 6 to 8 facets on the pavilion, Heart Cut diamonds have a wonderful sparkle.

When looking at Heart Cut diamonds, the crucial factor is the curved cuts, not only does the cleft need to be sharp and precise, but the curved lobes should be perfectly symmetrical. That is not just for exterior looks, having the same curve exactly enhances the brilliance of the diamond too, improving the light flow and brightening the finish.

Marquise Cut

While the cutting process shares similarities with the Brilliant Cut, the defining aspect of the Marquise Cut is the shape, reminiscent of the hull of a boat. This cut has 58 facets, 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion, although this can occasionally vary. As with many of these different shaped cuts, color and clarity are extremely important for a truly exceptional diamond. The elongated shape does magnify flaws, and so high clarity is key.

Good brilliance and clarity are enhanced by the shape, which is designed to provide the most carat weight possible from any rough diamond, enabling the elimination of inclusions while also retaining more diamond in the final cut than other shapes.

Oval Cut

Another version of the brilliant cut, taking the benefits of that, high brilliance, clarity and fire, and putting them into a slightly more unusual shape that helps them stand out from the many round diamonds we see. Featuring 58 facets, this oval shape optimizes carat weight, and it can appear larger than round stones of similar weight.

One of the benefits of the longer diamonds like this Oval Cut is that they perform an optical trick of elongating fingers when worn in a ring, providing an elegant look that many really love.

Pear Cut

Again, the Pear Cut takes the basic Brilliance Cut and adds a different shape to bring interest. With 58 facets, it has a wonderful brightness, and if the shape is to your taste, offers the same characteristics in an eye-catching form that is sure to stand out from the crowd. There are usually 58 facets, although the number of pavilion facets does vary between 4 and 8. Shape does vary as well, with some diamonds being cut with higher shoulders to give a more angular appearance.

The unusual shape makes a Pear Cut diamond something very different that stands out anywhere, and for those that love the shape, it may just be the perfect diamond for you.

Princess Cut

A square cut that is designed to get the maximum brilliance possible, Princess Cut diamonds are popular as engagement rings for this reason. The four-sided pyramid shape brings a unique beauty, and it is easy to see why it is popular. The Princess Cut features either 57 or 76 facets, helping it to create more light dispersion than any other square cut, and that has made it very popular for earrings and solitaire engagement rings.

However, if choosing a Princess Cut diamond, it is important the setting for it protects all four corners, as they are vulnerable to chipping. The corners are also the most likely place to see inclusions, as the way Princess Cut diamond are made means that those corners were often near to the surface of the initial rough diamond.

Radiant Cut

Combining the brilliance of the Round Cut with the style of the square cut, the Radiant Cut diamond is either a square or rectangle shaped diamond that is really unique. Created in 1977 by Henry Grossbard, it uses the step-cut technique of the Emerald Cut to add something very different to traditional Brilliant Cut looks. The Radiant Cut uses 70 facets, and a distinctive trimmed edge that give it those unique properties.

The idea behind the Radiant Cut is to allow makers to capture the beauty within a variety of rough diamonds, while maintaining the clarity and brilliance discerning customers want.

What is a Diamond Certificate?

Knowing what a diamond actually is in terms of its quality is important when buying, and the key to that is the Diamond Certificate. Think of it as a health check for diamonds, it is the proof that a reliable, professional and independent grading laboratory has examined the diamond and graded it appropriately, and you should never buy a diamond without one.

Testing is carried out preferably by one of the well-known grading laboratories, such as the International Gemological Institute (IGI) & European Gemological Laboratory (EGL), the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society (AGS), where the diamond is thoroughly examined. Using loupes, microscopes and other equipment, they are checked for cut grade, color grade, clarity grade and carat weight, which is all recorded on the Diamond Certificate. In that way, you have independently verified details of the diamond you are looking for.

This is important, because those grades, cut, color, clarity and carat weight, are the aspects of the diamond that determine its appearance and its value.